Health Conditions
Here are some of the most common health conditions that chinchillas suffer with. Please note that this page is for reference only and not for diagnosis or as a substitute to veterinary care.
If your chinchilla is sick then you must seek immediate treatment without delay. Afterwards you can use the information here to cross reference what the vet has advised you and discuss any concerns you may have with them.
Finding a knowledgeable chinchilla vet can be difficult, please see the choosing a vet section to ensure the Veterinary Practice you choose are well informed specifically of chinchillas’ care, needs and treatment.
If your chinchilla is sick then you must seek immediate treatment without delay. Afterwards you can use the information here to cross reference what the vet has advised you and discuss any concerns you may have with them.
Finding a knowledgeable chinchilla vet can be difficult, please see the choosing a vet section to ensure the Veterinary Practice you choose are well informed specifically of chinchillas’ care, needs and treatment.
BUMBLefOOT
Bumblefoot is a serious infection of the paw pads which can quickly become fatal. As it's life threatening and requires lengthy treatment, you really want to prevent your chinchilla developing this at all costs. Good hygiene and housekeeping of the chinchilla's cage are the most important factors for preventing bumblefoot occurring.
Symptoms can include:
- Red inflamed cracked feet, often with yellow or brown coloured crusting.
- Ulcers on feet
Possible causes
Bumblefoot usually occurs from unsanitary conditions. The presence of cuts and cracks on their paws as described above, leaves chinchillas more susceptible to the infection as the wound provides an easy opening for bacteria to enter the body.
Chinchillas who have a tendency to sit in their own urine or are kept in cages that are too small or aren't cleaned thoroughly enough are most likely to develop bumblefoot.
Chinchillas who have a tendency to sit in their own urine or are kept in cages that are too small or aren't cleaned thoroughly enough are most likely to develop bumblefoot.
Treatment
Bumblefoot is a critical condition and requires immediate vets treatment. Your vet should examine the chinchilla and prescribe antibiotics and painkillers to treat the infection. As antibiotics kill not only the bad bacteria making your chinchilla ill but also the good bacteria in their gut, your vet may also prescribe a probiotic such as Acidophilus, Avipro Plus, Bene-Bac Plus or Fibreplex to help counteract this.
You should also carry out an Epsom Salt Soak for your chinchilla's feet twice a day. Fill your kitchen sink with around 1 inch of water (cool to luke warm water, not hot) and add the Epsom salt as directed. Placing a wire cooling rack over the top of the sink with your chinchilla underneath prevents them from being able to escape and means you don't need to hold them if they find this stressful. Allow your chinchilla to soak their feet for around 5-10 minutes. With such shallow water (1 inch) your chinchilla's body shouldn't be too wet. However carefully dry any damp fur with a towel and then blow dry on a cool setting. Afterwards you can also apply bag balm and Blu Kote to the sores on the feet. (LINK)
Ensure the cage is kept extremely clean, it may be best to totally replace the current shelves with new ones. Deep clean the cage and disinfect the surfaces and shelves daily with vinegar water. Try to identify how Bumblefoot occurred in the first place and act upon this. Is the cage too small or crowded? Is it kept clean? Does your chinchilla sit in their own urine?
If the cage is big enough for the number of chinchillas, is kept clean but your chinchilla chooses to sit in their own urine then you can try litter training to go to the toilet elsewhere. (LINK) If you don't have success with this method, then encourage them to sit at other places in their cage by investing in a wooden house or tunnel that they may like to rest in instead. If all else fails, you will need to disinfect the dirty area on a daily basis and replace completely once it becomes too soiled.
You should also carry out an Epsom Salt Soak for your chinchilla's feet twice a day. Fill your kitchen sink with around 1 inch of water (cool to luke warm water, not hot) and add the Epsom salt as directed. Placing a wire cooling rack over the top of the sink with your chinchilla underneath prevents them from being able to escape and means you don't need to hold them if they find this stressful. Allow your chinchilla to soak their feet for around 5-10 minutes. With such shallow water (1 inch) your chinchilla's body shouldn't be too wet. However carefully dry any damp fur with a towel and then blow dry on a cool setting. Afterwards you can also apply bag balm and Blu Kote to the sores on the feet. (LINK)
Ensure the cage is kept extremely clean, it may be best to totally replace the current shelves with new ones. Deep clean the cage and disinfect the surfaces and shelves daily with vinegar water. Try to identify how Bumblefoot occurred in the first place and act upon this. Is the cage too small or crowded? Is it kept clean? Does your chinchilla sit in their own urine?
If the cage is big enough for the number of chinchillas, is kept clean but your chinchilla chooses to sit in their own urine then you can try litter training to go to the toilet elsewhere. (LINK) If you don't have success with this method, then encourage them to sit at other places in their cage by investing in a wooden house or tunnel that they may like to rest in instead. If all else fails, you will need to disinfect the dirty area on a daily basis and replace completely once it becomes too soiled.
CALCIUM Deficiency
Chinchillas' teeth should be a dark orange colour - white or yellow indicates a calcium deficiency. Lack of calcium can cause seizures or dental issues in the future so it's important to make sure your chinchilla is getting enough calcium.
Symptoms can include:
- White or yellow teeth
- Seizures
Possible causes
Calcium deficiency can be caused by not feeding a sufficient diet of unlimited high quality alfalfa based pellets and timothy hay.
Treatment
If your chinchilla's teeth are not dark orange then you need to increase their calcium intake.
A healthy diet should provide sufficient calcium, so ensure you're feeding them a high quality alfalfa based pellet such as Science Selective (UK), Oxbow Essentials or Mazuri (US) and timothy hay.
A healthy diet should provide sufficient calcium, so ensure you're feeding them a high quality alfalfa based pellet such as Science Selective (UK), Oxbow Essentials or Mazuri (US) and timothy hay.
To help raise calcium levels, feed your chinchilla alfalfa hay and provide a cuttlebone for them to chew on. If your chinchilla's teeth still don't turn to dark orange then you will need to visit your exotic vet.
Once their teeth become dark orange then you should stop this and just feed a healthy diet of pellets and timothy hay as too much calcium can cause kidney stones.
Once their teeth become dark orange then you should stop this and just feed a healthy diet of pellets and timothy hay as too much calcium can cause kidney stones.
Cracked Paws
Cracked or cut paws are relatively common in chinchillas. However it's important to monitor and treat this early to avoid it turning into the more complicated, serious foot infection Bumble foot - as detailed above.
Symptoms can include:
- Spots of blood in the cage
- Feet appear dry and cracked when examined
Possible causes
Cracked or cut paws are often caused by the chinchilla catching them on something rough or sharp in their cage. They may have chewed their wooden shelves so they now have a rough edge and caught their foot on that. If the chinchilla has a mesh bottom cage this may also cause their paws to become cracked or cut over time. Using the sandbath too regularly can also cause skin to become dry and more prone to cracking.
Treatment
Use Bag Balm to moisturise the cracked feet. You will need to ensure the cage is kept very clean and the surfaces are disinfected with vinegar water, as having cuts and sores can leave the chinchilla open to serious infections such as Bumblefoot.
Check the cage for any sharp edges, if wooden shelves and toys are jagged from where they've been chewed then sand them down (when the chinchilla is not in the cage due to the dust). If you have a mesh wire bottom cage, ensure there are also solid flat surfaces so the chinchilla has a choice where to stand.
If the chinchilla also has dry, flaky ears then they are having a sandbath too regularly, so reduce the frequency this is given. Depending on their fur, some chinchillas will only need a sandbath once or twice a week. You can tell if a chinchilla needs more sandbaths as their fur will appear greasy and dull, so as long as this isn't the case you can give them less often.
Good hygiene really is the key for preventing your chinchilla developing the potentially life threatening condition bumblefoot, as well as removing any obvious causes for the cracked paws such as sharp shelves, too frequent sandbaths and proving alternative surfaces to stand on in a wire mesh bottom cage.
Check the cage for any sharp edges, if wooden shelves and toys are jagged from where they've been chewed then sand them down (when the chinchilla is not in the cage due to the dust). If you have a mesh wire bottom cage, ensure there are also solid flat surfaces so the chinchilla has a choice where to stand.
If the chinchilla also has dry, flaky ears then they are having a sandbath too regularly, so reduce the frequency this is given. Depending on their fur, some chinchillas will only need a sandbath once or twice a week. You can tell if a chinchilla needs more sandbaths as their fur will appear greasy and dull, so as long as this isn't the case you can give them less often.
Good hygiene really is the key for preventing your chinchilla developing the potentially life threatening condition bumblefoot, as well as removing any obvious causes for the cracked paws such as sharp shelves, too frequent sandbaths and proving alternative surfaces to stand on in a wire mesh bottom cage.
GI Statis (bloat)
GI Statis or bloat as it’s often known, is a build up of gas in the chinchilla’s stomach. Although this may initially sound trivial, this is very serious for chinchillas as they cannot pass gas and is fatal if not treated very quickly. You must get an emergency vets appointment and administer infant gas drops at home immediately.
Symptoms can include:
- Poos with visible air bubbles or crevices/pits on surface (moon like appearance)
- Passing less poos than normal
- Pressing hips or stomach to the ground (like doing an army crawl)
- Stomach feels hard to the touch
- Reluctance to eat
- Hunched appearance and less active than usual
Possible causes
Feeding unsafe treats such as vegetables, fruit nuts or seeds can cause bloat.
Other than improper diet, bloat often occurs when the chinchilla is not eating properly, this may be due to an owner severely limiting their food intake or as a secondary cause of another serious health condition, where the chinchilla stops eating because they’re in pain. Due to the chinchillas’ digestive system they need to eat almost constantly, which is why you should free feed high quality pellets and timothy hay. You will need to take your chinchilla to the vets immediately to treat bloat and find out the cause behind it.
Other than improper diet, bloat often occurs when the chinchilla is not eating properly, this may be due to an owner severely limiting their food intake or as a secondary cause of another serious health condition, where the chinchilla stops eating because they’re in pain. Due to the chinchillas’ digestive system they need to eat almost constantly, which is why you should free feed high quality pellets and timothy hay. You will need to take your chinchilla to the vets immediately to treat bloat and find out the cause behind it.
Treatment
Administer infant gas drops to your chinchilla at home immediately (in the UK use Infacol sufar free : 0.5ml every 8-12hrs, US & Canada use Simethicone dye free drops such as Major Infants Gas Relief or Mylicon Gas Relief: 0.3ml every 8-12 hours) and take them to the vets as a matter of urgency.
The vet should give them a thorough examination and prescribe further medication as required. In some cases you may need to keep your chinchilla in a single storey cage whilst they recover, to prevent them from jumping and rupturing their stomach. As mentioned above you’ll also need to determine the cause of the bloat, whether this is due to another health condition or poor diet, to stop it reoccurring. |
fatty liver disease
Fatty Liver Disease is a serious condition where excess fat builds up around the chinchilla's organs.
Unfortunately symptoms often only show once the condition has been present for some time, which is why prevention by feeding a healthy diet, is so much better than cure.
Unfortunately symptoms often only show once the condition has been present for some time, which is why prevention by feeding a healthy diet, is so much better than cure.
Symptoms can include:
The chinchilla may be overweight but this does not have to be the case. A chinchilla who is a normal weight can still develop fatty liver disease by being fed an unhealthy diet such as colourful mix type pellets and unsafe treats such as raisins, nuts, seeds, vegetables and fruit.
Signs of an overweight chinchilla include:
As fatty liver disease progresses, the chinchilla will begin to lose weight as their health deteriorates.
Signs of an overweight chinchilla include:
- Bulge on head that extends over skull
- Fleshy patches on underbelly
- Rolls of loose fat on the stomach
As fatty liver disease progresses, the chinchilla will begin to lose weight as their health deteriorates.
Possible causes
Fatty Liver Disease is caused by an unhealthy diet or the chinchilla being overweight, sometimes these go hand in hand. However it's possible for a chinchilla to be fed a bad diet and not be overweight, the chinchilla is still poorly nourished and the dangerous fat builds around the vital organs leading to fatty liver disease. Very rarely chinchillas can become overweight on a good diet by eating too many pellets, even if they are the healthy ones. Signs of an overweight chinchilla and what to do can be found in the chinchilla food section.
In most cases though, an unhealthy diet is the culprit though. This includes feeding unsuitable pellets such as the brightly coloured types (Charlie Chinchilla, Chinchilla Nature, Nature's Touch Chinchilla Food to name a few) or other unsafe pellets such as Oxbow Garden Select Chinchilla Food. Feeding dangerous treats such as nuts, seeds, raisins, fruit or vegetables are also a big cause of Fatty Liver Disease. Even feeding safe treats too regularly can lead to this condition.
In most cases though, an unhealthy diet is the culprit though. This includes feeding unsuitable pellets such as the brightly coloured types (Charlie Chinchilla, Chinchilla Nature, Nature's Touch Chinchilla Food to name a few) or other unsafe pellets such as Oxbow Garden Select Chinchilla Food. Feeding dangerous treats such as nuts, seeds, raisins, fruit or vegetables are also a big cause of Fatty Liver Disease. Even feeding safe treats too regularly can lead to this condition.
Treatment
If your chinchilla starts losing weight or looks unwell take them to the vets immediately. You should weigh your chinchilla weekly with a pair of kitchen style scales to monitor their weight.
If you are feeding a pellet that has colourful pieces this is very unhealthy for your chinchilla. Gradually switch to a healthy pellet such as Science Selective Chinchilla food in the UK or Oxbow Essentials Chinchilla Food or Mazuri Chinchilla Diet in the US and Canada.
NEVER feed nuts, seeds, raisins, fruit or vegetables. Most chinchilla pet shop treats are also too high in sugar and fats. If a treat isn't listed on the safe list, listed under the diet section, then it is likely to be unsuitable for your chinchilla.
Ensure you feed your chinchilla unlimited timothy hay, hay is vital for your chinchilla's digestion and is a great source of fibre.
If you are feeding a pellet that has colourful pieces this is very unhealthy for your chinchilla. Gradually switch to a healthy pellet such as Science Selective Chinchilla food in the UK or Oxbow Essentials Chinchilla Food or Mazuri Chinchilla Diet in the US and Canada.
NEVER feed nuts, seeds, raisins, fruit or vegetables. Most chinchilla pet shop treats are also too high in sugar and fats. If a treat isn't listed on the safe list, listed under the diet section, then it is likely to be unsuitable for your chinchilla.
Ensure you feed your chinchilla unlimited timothy hay, hay is vital for your chinchilla's digestion and is a great source of fibre.
Heatstroke
Chinchillas need to live in a cool dry climate (21C/68F or lower) otherwise they become susceptible to heatstroke.
Anything in excess of 24C/75F can very quickly become fatal for chinchillas.
Anything in excess of 24C/75F can very quickly become fatal for chinchillas.
Symptoms can include:
- Red ears, sometimes with the veins inflamed and visibly showing
- Lying down appearing listless
- Laboured breathing
- In very severe cases, drooling or diarrhoea
Possible causes
Any time when the temperature exceeds 21C/68F. You should keep the temperature even lower than this during playtime when the chinchilla is moving around more.
The temperature at which a chinchilla succumbs to heatstroke varies from animal to animal and is also influenced by their overall health and age. Once temperatures rise above 21C/68F it puts a strain on the chinchilla’s body, becoming increasingly worse as the temperature rises.
Obviously you do not want to push your chinchilla to the stage they start showing symptoms of deadly heatstroke so please never let temperatures reach this stage. A guide to keeping your chinchilla cool can be found here.
The temperature at which a chinchilla succumbs to heatstroke varies from animal to animal and is also influenced by their overall health and age. Once temperatures rise above 21C/68F it puts a strain on the chinchilla’s body, becoming increasingly worse as the temperature rises.
Obviously you do not want to push your chinchilla to the stage they start showing symptoms of deadly heatstroke so please never let temperatures reach this stage. A guide to keeping your chinchilla cool can be found here.
Treatment
You need to lower the chinchilla’s temperature immediately. If the chinchilla has red ears but none of the other symptoms then moving them right away to an environment that’s lower than 21C/68F should be sufficient.
If your air conditioning has broken you will need to take your chinchilla to a friend's/relative's house, vets or an air Conditioned Hotel. Ensure you transport your chinchilla in a pre-air conditioned vehicle, you can also keep the chinchilla in here temporarily whilst you arrange where to take them to until your air conditioning is fixed.
Fans do not work for chinchillas, they do not lower the room temperature but just circulate the air around and as chinchillas don't sweat like humans do, the breeze of a fan does not have any cooling effect for them.
If the chinchilla is showing more serious symptoms of heatstroke such as lying on their side not moving, laboured breathing or diarrhoea then you'll need to take more extreme actions to save their life.
Put your chinchilla inside the refrigerator with the door open or in front of the freezer (never put them in the freezer) and allow them to cool down.
If you don’t have access to a fridge or freezer then you’ll need to place your chinchilla into a bowl of cool water (not ice cold). Support their body and make sure you don’t get water on their head. Once you have moved your chinchilla to a room that’s a safe temperature, you will need to ensure you dry them thoroughly to prevent any infections such as ringworm as a result of getting wet. Dry the chinchilla gently with a towel and then hairdryer on the cool setting to make sure they’re completely dry.
If your chinchilla does not go back to acting as normal once you've cooled them down then you'll need to take them to the emergency vets. Ensure you have the air conditioning running in the vehicle before you put them in, as otherwise you will make them much worse.
Unfortunately every year chinchillas die unnecessarily from heatstroke, please ensure you always keep the temperature at a safe level and always have a back up for when your air conditioning fails.
If your air conditioning has broken you will need to take your chinchilla to a friend's/relative's house, vets or an air Conditioned Hotel. Ensure you transport your chinchilla in a pre-air conditioned vehicle, you can also keep the chinchilla in here temporarily whilst you arrange where to take them to until your air conditioning is fixed.
Fans do not work for chinchillas, they do not lower the room temperature but just circulate the air around and as chinchillas don't sweat like humans do, the breeze of a fan does not have any cooling effect for them.
If the chinchilla is showing more serious symptoms of heatstroke such as lying on their side not moving, laboured breathing or diarrhoea then you'll need to take more extreme actions to save their life.
Put your chinchilla inside the refrigerator with the door open or in front of the freezer (never put them in the freezer) and allow them to cool down.
If you don’t have access to a fridge or freezer then you’ll need to place your chinchilla into a bowl of cool water (not ice cold). Support their body and make sure you don’t get water on their head. Once you have moved your chinchilla to a room that’s a safe temperature, you will need to ensure you dry them thoroughly to prevent any infections such as ringworm as a result of getting wet. Dry the chinchilla gently with a towel and then hairdryer on the cool setting to make sure they’re completely dry.
If your chinchilla does not go back to acting as normal once you've cooled them down then you'll need to take them to the emergency vets. Ensure you have the air conditioning running in the vehicle before you put them in, as otherwise you will make them much worse.
Unfortunately every year chinchillas die unnecessarily from heatstroke, please ensure you always keep the temperature at a safe level and always have a back up for when your air conditioning fails.
Malocclusion
Unfortunately a fairly common condition for chinchillas, malocclusion is the misalignment of the upper and lower teeth where these don’t come together properly when biting or chewing. As a result of malocclusion, the roots of the teeth often grow past their usual position into the nasal cavity, eye sockets or jaw.
The elongated teeth roots is unfortunately the part of malocclusion which can’t be treated and is sadly fatal. Malocclusion is a very serious, painful condition which requires urgent attention from a vet. |
Other dental issues in chinchillas
Malocclusion is the most serious form of dental problems in chinchillas, as sadly the elongation of the roots is fatal. However with 20 teeth in total, there are also other forms of dental issues chinchillas can suffer from, often caused by injury such as falling in their cage, or poor diet from not being providing with sufficient timothy hay, alfalfa based pellets and safe chews to wear down their teeth. |
These other forms of dental issues, such as tooth loss and tooth spurs, as explained further below, can quickly lead to malocclusion so it’s important to prevent these from occurring as much as possible and to get any teeth concerns checked out.
Symptoms can include:
- Watery eyes
- Wet mouth and chin
- Pawing at noise and mouth
- Crumbly pellets left in bowl
- Not eating as much, or only eating hay not pellets
- Gagging sound whilst eating
- Weight loss
- Fewer or smaller poos than normal
- Poos that contain undigested pieces of hay
Possible causes
Malocclusion is often hereditary and any chinchilla with a history of this in their family must never be bred.
Other possible environmental causes include not being given enough safe chews, proper pellets and timothy hay to wear down their teeth, or suffering a injury to the head which can cause malocclusion to develop. This is another reason why you must ensure your chinchilla’s cage and playpen does not have any drops higher than 40cm/16" where they could fall and hurt themselves.
Other possible environmental causes include not being given enough safe chews, proper pellets and timothy hay to wear down their teeth, or suffering a injury to the head which can cause malocclusion to develop. This is another reason why you must ensure your chinchilla’s cage and playpen does not have any drops higher than 40cm/16" where they could fall and hurt themselves.
Treatment
Take your chinchilla to the vets immediately. The vet will need to do an X-ray to see the extent of the condition. Only the one part of malocclusion, where the teeth misalign when chewing, is visible through looking in the mouth.
The second more serious part, where the roots grow into the nasal cavity, eye sockets or jaw, can only be seen via X-ray. Unfortunately this is the part of malocclusion that causes the most serious problems and cannot be treated. |
If your chinchilla is diagnosed with malocclusion, your vet should talk through all the options with you based on the X-ray results. In the short term the teeth can be trimmed down, however this does not help the painful, fatal side when the roots are growing into the nasal cavity, eye sockets or jaw.
Unfortunately malocclusion is fatal, so you will be faced with the difficult decision of putting your chinchilla to sleep. Some may decide to do this upon diagnosis if the chinchilla’s teeth roots are already overgrown, others may decide to undergo teeth trimming if the teeth roots are not yet posing a serious problem.
When you decide to let your chinchilla go is a very personal decision, however it’s important to monitor your chinchilla’s quality of life as you don’t want them suffering in pain. Chinchillas can hide pain very well so whilst your chinchilla may not visibly look in discomfort, they may actually be in considerable pain. This is why it is vital to have X-rays taken to check if the teeth roots are invading other parts of the skull, in which case putting the chinchilla to sleep is the most humane choice.
The stress of having teeth trimmed can take its toll on your chinchilla and unfortunately this only delays the inevitable, rather than curing malocclusion. If you know the breeder you should let them know your chinchilla’s diagnosis so they can stop that breeding line immediately to prevent more animals developing the condition. Malocclusion is a heart breaking condition for any owner to endure and another reason why only proven pedigreed chinchillas should be bred to help prevent further suffering.
Unfortunately malocclusion is fatal, so you will be faced with the difficult decision of putting your chinchilla to sleep. Some may decide to do this upon diagnosis if the chinchilla’s teeth roots are already overgrown, others may decide to undergo teeth trimming if the teeth roots are not yet posing a serious problem.
When you decide to let your chinchilla go is a very personal decision, however it’s important to monitor your chinchilla’s quality of life as you don’t want them suffering in pain. Chinchillas can hide pain very well so whilst your chinchilla may not visibly look in discomfort, they may actually be in considerable pain. This is why it is vital to have X-rays taken to check if the teeth roots are invading other parts of the skull, in which case putting the chinchilla to sleep is the most humane choice.
The stress of having teeth trimmed can take its toll on your chinchilla and unfortunately this only delays the inevitable, rather than curing malocclusion. If you know the breeder you should let them know your chinchilla’s diagnosis so they can stop that breeding line immediately to prevent more animals developing the condition. Malocclusion is a heart breaking condition for any owner to endure and another reason why only proven pedigreed chinchillas should be bred to help prevent further suffering.
Ringworm
Ringworm is a fungal infection that can affect chinchillas. Despite the name, it does not actually have anything to do with worms. It can be very itchy and uncomfortable for the chinchilla and as it's very contagious you will need to treat it straight away, as well as thoroughly disinfecting the cage and toys to prevent further contamination.
Symptoms can include:
- Bald spots often first appear around the eyes or nose
- Skin then appears red and irritated, sometimes accompanied with dry, flaky yellow patches
- Scratching at the affected areas
Possible causes
High levels of humidity can cause ringworm, as well as if the chinchilla has gotten wet and not been dried thoroughly.
Stress, such as change of environment, can also cause the infection to present itself.
Stress, such as change of environment, can also cause the infection to present itself.
Treatment
Any bald patches on your chinchilla needs treatment and you should take them to your exotic vet to confirm that it is ringworm and not a bacterial infection.
Ringworm can be treated at home using Blu Kote (with dauber cap) as well as either Scholl athletes foot powder or Tinactin Anti Fungal Foot Powder. Use Blu Kote to cover the affected areas on your chinchilla, apply every other day for around 4 weeks or until the fur starts to grow back. Take care not to get any of the Blu Kote in the chinchilla's eyes, mouth, nose or genitals. |
Blu Kote has a bright purple colour, which helps you to easily identify where it's been applied! This will fade to green then eventually disappear from your chinchilla's fur.
Put clean chinchilla sand into the sandbath and add around 3 tablespoons of Scholl athletes foot powder (UK) or Tinactin Anti Fungal foot powder (US) and allow your chinchilla to bathe in this regularly.
If ringworm doesn't start to improve after starting treatment, take your chinchilla to the exotic vets for further advice.
Put clean chinchilla sand into the sandbath and add around 3 tablespoons of Scholl athletes foot powder (UK) or Tinactin Anti Fungal foot powder (US) and allow your chinchilla to bathe in this regularly.
If ringworm doesn't start to improve after starting treatment, take your chinchilla to the exotic vets for further advice.
SEizures
Like humans and many other species, some chinchillas experience seizures or fits.
Although some may grow out of this, for many it's a long term health condition that you'll need to manage as best as possible to avoid the chinchilla getting injured or passing away as a result.
Although some may grow out of this, for many it's a long term health condition that you'll need to manage as best as possible to avoid the chinchilla getting injured or passing away as a result.
Symptoms can include:
- Twitching, jerking or spasms of the limbs
- Appearing disoriented, staggering and struggling to walk, as if drunk
- Being unresponsive
- Shaking
- Weakness, difficulty standing and appearing very sleepy
Possible causes
Seizures can be caused by a range of different things. Some may be environmental such as poor diet, overheating or calcium deficiency (see above). An inappropriate diet with unsafe pellets or treats, or just too many safe treats can cause the chinchilla to experience drops in blood sugar resulting in seizures.
Other causes of seizures can be genetic and something the chinchilla develops regardless of good care. This may be hereditary or just one of those things a chinchilla happens to develop. Low blood sugar or heart conditions are often causes of seizures.
Playtime, running on a wheel, getting exited or stressed may trigger a seizure however these are not the causes of seizures . In healthy chinchillas being allowed exercise is a great thing and vital for overall wellbeing. Unless your chinchilla suffers from seizures there is absolutely no need to limit or stop their playtime and exercise.
Other causes of seizures can be genetic and something the chinchilla develops regardless of good care. This may be hereditary or just one of those things a chinchilla happens to develop. Low blood sugar or heart conditions are often causes of seizures.
Playtime, running on a wheel, getting exited or stressed may trigger a seizure however these are not the causes of seizures . In healthy chinchillas being allowed exercise is a great thing and vital for overall wellbeing. Unless your chinchilla suffers from seizures there is absolutely no need to limit or stop their playtime and exercise.
Treatment
1. During the seizure
Make sure your chinchilla is at ground level (not on a shelf) and there's nothing they could hurt themselves on. Do not try to feed or give your chinchilla anything to drink as they could choke. If it's safe to do so, try and film your chinchilla experiencing the seizure so you can show this to your Exotic Vet.
Keep a record of the date, time and length of the seizure as well as any activities beforehand (eg playtime, on wheel, sandbath, communicating with cage mate) so you can spot if there's a pattern occurring. Take your chinchilla to an exotic vet to try and determine the cause of the seizure and how these can be treated.
2. After Seizure
Check that the seizure isn't being caused by any environmental factor by checking the 3 following things:
1. Temperature is less than 21C/68F, as overheating can cause seizures
2. Diet - your chinchilla is eating a high quality pellet such as Oxbow essentials, Mazuri or Science Selective and Timothy hay, hasn't been fed any fruits, raisins or other high sugar unsafe treats
3. Orange teeth - healthy teeth are a deep orange colour. Teeth that are white or yellow in colour indicates calcium deficiency and can cause seizures. Providing alfalfa hay and a cuttlebone can increase calcium intake. See more on the Calcium Deficiency section above.
Once you've checked your chinchilla's seizures aren't being caused by an environmental issue then it's likely this condition is something the chinchilla was born with. As mentioned above, take your chinchilla to your exotic vet for them to investigate further. They may take your chinchilla's blood and examine their heart rate to try and identify a cause.
To avoid your chinchilla hurting themselves you may need to keep them in a single level cage and avoid any potential seizure triggers such as playtime or using a wheel.
Seizure Triggers
Chinchillas who suffer from seizures may be triggered when they are more active, such as during playtime, running on their wheel, or even having a sandbath!
For these chinchillas, exercise may need to be limited for their own safety. Please note that these can be the triggers of seizures but are not the cause.
A healthy chinchilla will not have seizures from moving around too much. Therefore if you have multiple chinchillas and only one suffers from seizures, you do not need to restrict the playtime of other chinchillas who don't have this condition.
Whilst seizures can sadly be fatal, many chinchillas still live a long, happy and relatively normal life with careful management of this condition.
Make sure your chinchilla is at ground level (not on a shelf) and there's nothing they could hurt themselves on. Do not try to feed or give your chinchilla anything to drink as they could choke. If it's safe to do so, try and film your chinchilla experiencing the seizure so you can show this to your Exotic Vet.
Keep a record of the date, time and length of the seizure as well as any activities beforehand (eg playtime, on wheel, sandbath, communicating with cage mate) so you can spot if there's a pattern occurring. Take your chinchilla to an exotic vet to try and determine the cause of the seizure and how these can be treated.
2. After Seizure
Check that the seizure isn't being caused by any environmental factor by checking the 3 following things:
1. Temperature is less than 21C/68F, as overheating can cause seizures
2. Diet - your chinchilla is eating a high quality pellet such as Oxbow essentials, Mazuri or Science Selective and Timothy hay, hasn't been fed any fruits, raisins or other high sugar unsafe treats
3. Orange teeth - healthy teeth are a deep orange colour. Teeth that are white or yellow in colour indicates calcium deficiency and can cause seizures. Providing alfalfa hay and a cuttlebone can increase calcium intake. See more on the Calcium Deficiency section above.
Once you've checked your chinchilla's seizures aren't being caused by an environmental issue then it's likely this condition is something the chinchilla was born with. As mentioned above, take your chinchilla to your exotic vet for them to investigate further. They may take your chinchilla's blood and examine their heart rate to try and identify a cause.
To avoid your chinchilla hurting themselves you may need to keep them in a single level cage and avoid any potential seizure triggers such as playtime or using a wheel.
Seizure Triggers
Chinchillas who suffer from seizures may be triggered when they are more active, such as during playtime, running on their wheel, or even having a sandbath!
For these chinchillas, exercise may need to be limited for their own safety. Please note that these can be the triggers of seizures but are not the cause.
A healthy chinchilla will not have seizures from moving around too much. Therefore if you have multiple chinchillas and only one suffers from seizures, you do not need to restrict the playtime of other chinchillas who don't have this condition.
Whilst seizures can sadly be fatal, many chinchillas still live a long, happy and relatively normal life with careful management of this condition.
Sprains, fractures and broken bones
Chinchillas are naturally lively, bouncy, inquisitive animals but have very delicate bone structures which can leave them prone to injuries and broken bones.
Symptoms can include:
Chinchillas will always try to hide any sign of injury or illness, so you will have to observe carefully as signs they've hurt themselves may not always be obvious.
However they can include:
However they can include:
- Limping
- Reluctance to put weight on a particular limb
- Moving around differently
- Being less active
- Not moving around different levels of their cage
- Lying on their side with laboured breathing (more common in rib breaks)
- Not resisting being handled as they normally would
Possible causes
Sprains, fractures and breaks are often caused by the chinchilla falling or getting their limb caught in something.
If the chinchilla becomes trapped they will panic and try and pull their limb free which can cause serious damage. Wire hay balls or racks, are some of the main culprits for trapped limbs, as well as the chinchilla accidentally hanging themselves. For these reasons they should never be used.
Falls are another big cause of injuries, which is another reason why you should ensure there are no drops in your chinchilla's cage or playtime area higher than 40cm/16inches.
Broken bones can also be caused by improper handling or fights between cage mates. Chinchillas' rib cages are very delicate so you must never accidentally squeeze your chinchilla.
Watch your chinchillas carefully for any signs of disagreements between cage mates, broken bones can occur during fights or from the chinchilla falling when trying to escape an attack.
If the chinchilla becomes trapped they will panic and try and pull their limb free which can cause serious damage. Wire hay balls or racks, are some of the main culprits for trapped limbs, as well as the chinchilla accidentally hanging themselves. For these reasons they should never be used.
Falls are another big cause of injuries, which is another reason why you should ensure there are no drops in your chinchilla's cage or playtime area higher than 40cm/16inches.
Broken bones can also be caused by improper handling or fights between cage mates. Chinchillas' rib cages are very delicate so you must never accidentally squeeze your chinchilla.
Watch your chinchillas carefully for any signs of disagreements between cage mates, broken bones can occur during fights or from the chinchilla falling when trying to escape an attack.
Treatment
Possible fractures or broken bones requires an emergency vets appointment. The chinchilla will be in an extreme amount of pain and can die from shock. They also risk hurting themselves further if they try to move around on the injured limb.
Carefully place your chinchilla in a small, single level carry cage. You want to stop your chinchilla moving as much as possible to prevent further injury so do this right away, even if your emergency vets appointment isn't until later.
The vet will need to take X-Rays to confirm if your chinchilla has suffered a sprain, fracture or break. Sprains are less serious but can get worse if the chinchilla continues to put strain on the injury. Therefore to avoid your chinchilla putting further pressure on the limb and escalating to a fracture or break, you'll need to keep your chinchilla in a single level, small suitable cage without a wheel for around 3 weeks until healed. Do not allow playtime during this period. The vet may prescribe painkillers for a sprain, you should book a follow up appointment to check the injury has healed before allowing your chinchilla back to their usual cage and exercise regime.
Carefully place your chinchilla in a small, single level carry cage. You want to stop your chinchilla moving as much as possible to prevent further injury so do this right away, even if your emergency vets appointment isn't until later.
The vet will need to take X-Rays to confirm if your chinchilla has suffered a sprain, fracture or break. Sprains are less serious but can get worse if the chinchilla continues to put strain on the injury. Therefore to avoid your chinchilla putting further pressure on the limb and escalating to a fracture or break, you'll need to keep your chinchilla in a single level, small suitable cage without a wheel for around 3 weeks until healed. Do not allow playtime during this period. The vet may prescribe painkillers for a sprain, you should book a follow up appointment to check the injury has healed before allowing your chinchilla back to their usual cage and exercise regime.
Fractures and breaks are more serious and may require the limb to be amputated. Milder fractures can be treated similar to sprains (above) by limiting all activity for around 5 weeks and administering painkillers as prescribed.
With more serious fractures and breaks, the limb may need to be removed under general anaesthetic. Once your pet is allowed back home after the procedure, the vet will likely prescribe a combination of antibiotics, anti-inflammatory and painkillers. |
As antibiotics kill not only bad bacteria but also the good bacteria in their gut as well, your vet may also prescribe a probiotic such as Acidophilus, Avipro Plus, Bene-Bac Plus or Fibreplex to help counteract this. Again you will need to keep your chinchilla in a smaller single level cage whilst they recover (around 4 weeks, depending on vet's advice). After the initial recovery period, chinchillas generally cope quite well with adjusting to only having three legs and should be able to live a relatively normal, active life.
Tooth Elongation
Tooth Elongation is when one or more of the chinchilla’s teeth become too long. This should not be confused with root elongation, which is the fatal part of malocclusion (more information above) where the roots become overgrown.
Although unfortunately it is very common for a chinchilla to suffer from both, as an overgrown tooth often results in the roots becoming overgrown too.
Although unfortunately it is very common for a chinchilla to suffer from both, as an overgrown tooth often results in the roots becoming overgrown too.
Symptoms can include:
Symptoms of tooth elongation may be similar to those described for malocclusion above:
- Not eating as much, or only eating hay not pellets
- Weight loss
- Fewer or smaller poos than normal
- Crumbly pellets left in bowl
- Watery eyes
- Wet mouth and chin
- Pawing at noise and mouth
- Gagging sound whilst eating
- Poos that contain undigested pieces of hay
Possible causes
Tooth loss can be a cause of tooth elongation as the opposite tooth is no longer being worn down by the missing tooth, therefore causing the remaining tooth to be overgrown.
Misaligned teeth can also result in them becoming overgrown due to not aligning up correctly as the chinchilla chews and therefore not being worn down properly. As well as genetic malocclusion, injury to the head is another contributor to tooth elongation resulting in the teeth becoming misaligned or the chinchilla not chewing on a particular part of their mouth if they have hurt it.
Remember chinchillas constantly need to wear down their teeth to stop them becoming overgrown - providing safe chews, timothy hay and high quality pellets are vital for this.
Misaligned teeth can also result in them becoming overgrown due to not aligning up correctly as the chinchilla chews and therefore not being worn down properly. As well as genetic malocclusion, injury to the head is another contributor to tooth elongation resulting in the teeth becoming misaligned or the chinchilla not chewing on a particular part of their mouth if they have hurt it.
Remember chinchillas constantly need to wear down their teeth to stop them becoming overgrown - providing safe chews, timothy hay and high quality pellets are vital for this.
Treatment
In the short term the vet can file down and clip the overgrown tooth, however it is important to investigate why the tooth has become overgrown in the first place.
The chinchilla’s bite should be checked for misalignment and X-rays taken to see if the roots are overgrown.
Whilst it’s possible to manage tooth elongation by regular vets visits for teeth trimming, unfortunately if the X-rays show that the roots are also overgrown, this sadly cannot be treated and the kindest option is to have your chinchilla put to sleep.
The chinchilla’s bite should be checked for misalignment and X-rays taken to see if the roots are overgrown.
Whilst it’s possible to manage tooth elongation by regular vets visits for teeth trimming, unfortunately if the X-rays show that the roots are also overgrown, this sadly cannot be treated and the kindest option is to have your chinchilla put to sleep.
Tooth loss
Chinchillas can lose or chip teeth, which if not treated can lead to serious dental issues such as malocclusion.
Symptoms can include:
- Missing or broken tooth
- Not eating as much, or only eating hay not pellets
- Weight loss
- Fewer or smaller poos than normal
- Crumbly pellets left in bowl
- Watery eyes
- Wet mouth and chin
- Pawing at noise and mouth
- Gagging sound whilst eating
- Poos that contain undigested pieces of hay
Possible causes
Injuries to the head are one of the main causes of a missing or chipped tooth. As mentioned, this is why it is vital to ensure the chinchilla’s cage and playpen does not include any drops higher than 40cm/16” at all times, to prevent the chinchilla from seriously hurting themselves if they fall.
Tooth loss or chipping can sometimes be due to poor diet causing the chinchilla’s teeth to become brittle and more susceptible to breaks. This is why you must ensure your chinchilla is fed unlimited timothy hay, alfalfa based pellets and no dangerous treats such as fruits, vegetables or nuts and that their teeth are a nice deep orange colour. |
White teeth indicate calcium deficiency (see above) which needs addressing to prevent health problems as a result.
Treatment
Take your chinchilla to the vets without delay. If the tooth is salvageable the vet will likely need to smooth the surface over to remove any sharp parts which could cut the chinchilla’s mouth. For minor chips, the chinchilla’s tooth should eventually grow back as normal as the chinchilla’s natural chewing movements with high fibre food such as hay, will help to smooth the surface out.
However if the tooth has been knocked clean out or is so broken that it is no longer salvageable, the chinchilla will need the tooth removing. Unfortunately a missing tooth can lead to complications as the tooth opposite the gap no longer has a tooth there to wear itself down on and can also become overgrown, which is known as tooth elongation, as above.
Unfortunately tooth loss can cause malocclusion to develop as a gap in the mouth also provides the opportunity for other teeth to move into the space where the tooth was, resulting in misalignment of the teeth and the roots to grow abnormally as result.
If your chinchilla has chipped or lost a tooth, you should take them for regular check ups so the vets can file down the corresponding tooth as necessary and keep an eye out for any early signs of malocclusion.
However if the tooth has been knocked clean out or is so broken that it is no longer salvageable, the chinchilla will need the tooth removing. Unfortunately a missing tooth can lead to complications as the tooth opposite the gap no longer has a tooth there to wear itself down on and can also become overgrown, which is known as tooth elongation, as above.
Unfortunately tooth loss can cause malocclusion to develop as a gap in the mouth also provides the opportunity for other teeth to move into the space where the tooth was, resulting in misalignment of the teeth and the roots to grow abnormally as result.
If your chinchilla has chipped or lost a tooth, you should take them for regular check ups so the vets can file down the corresponding tooth as necessary and keep an eye out for any early signs of malocclusion.
Tooth Spurs
Tooth spurs are a sharp point on the tooth, usually as a result of the teeth not being aligned properly and growing at an angle as a result of this. The abnormal angle the teeth grow at means they are not filled down evenly with the chinchilla’s chewing movements, leading tooth spurs to occur. This can make it difficult for the chinchilla to eat, and the sharp points of the tooth spur can cause painful cuts in the chinchilla’s mouth.
Symptoms can include:
Symptoms may be similar to malocclusion and can include:
- Not eating as much, or only eating hay not pellets
- Weight loss
- Fewer or smaller poos than normal
- Cuts inside the mouth
- Crumbly pellets left in bowl
- Watery eyes
- Wet mouth and chin
- Pawing at noise and mouth
- Gagging sound whilst eating
- Poos that contain undigested pieces of hay
Possible causes
Tooth spurs can occur as a result of the chinchilla’s mouth structure, which may lead to some chinchillas’ teeth growing at an angle as a result of the genetic structure of their mouth. This is just yet another reason why only pedigree chinchillas should be bred.
Tooth spurs can also occur as a result of an injury to the face or a missing tooth causing the remaining teeth to become misaligned, not grow straight and tooth spurs to develop.
Tooth spurs can also occur as a result of an injury to the face or a missing tooth causing the remaining teeth to become misaligned, not grow straight and tooth spurs to develop.
Treatment
Take your chinchilla to the vets urgently, tooth spurs can cause the chinchilla a lot of pain, discourage them from eating and lead to further dental problems if not caught early.
Your vet should examine the teeth and file down any tooth spurs that are found, to put the tooth’s surface back to how it should be as much as possible.
Tooth spurs usually require regular maintenance to keep the tooth filed down and prevent the condition from worsening, so you will need to make regular follow up trips to the vets to keep the condition under control.
Unfortunately when the teeth are growing at an angle this can sometimes cause the roots to grow abnormally and malocclusion to occur as a result.
Your vet should examine the teeth and file down any tooth spurs that are found, to put the tooth’s surface back to how it should be as much as possible.
Tooth spurs usually require regular maintenance to keep the tooth filed down and prevent the condition from worsening, so you will need to make regular follow up trips to the vets to keep the condition under control.
Unfortunately when the teeth are growing at an angle this can sometimes cause the roots to grow abnormally and malocclusion to occur as a result.
URI (Upper Respiratory Tract Infection)
Whilst URIs (upper respiratory infections) may initially not sound that dangerous, for chinchillas and many other small animals, respiratory infections can quickly become fatal if not caught early and treated urgently.
Symptoms can include:
- Sneezing
- Runny nose
- Pawing and wiping nose
- Runny eyes
- Noise when breathing
- Reluctance to eat and appearing lethargic
Possible causes
URIs can be caused by direct drafts or environments that are too humid or overcrowded.
Ensure humidity levels are lower than 60%, your chinchilla is kept away from any drafts or breezes and they have sufficient space in a clean cage.
Stress can also lower a chinchilla’s immune system meaning they are more susceptible to infections, so ensure their cage is kept in a quiet, safe environment, free from loud noises or disruption.
Ensure humidity levels are lower than 60%, your chinchilla is kept away from any drafts or breezes and they have sufficient space in a clean cage.
Stress can also lower a chinchilla’s immune system meaning they are more susceptible to infections, so ensure their cage is kept in a quiet, safe environment, free from loud noises or disruption.
Treatment
Take your chinchilla to the exotic vets immediately, time is absolutely crucial with URIs and you don't have a moment to loose.
Your vet should prescribe an antibiotic such as Baytril to treat the URI and may also prescribe a painkiller such as Metacam. You may also need to hand feed your chinchilla critical care if they are not eating as normal.
Baytril can result in loss of appetite so monitor your chinchilla carefully to ensure they are eating properly and not losing weight. As antibiotics kill not only the bad bacteria making your chinchilla ill, but also the good bacteria in their gut, your vet may also prescribe a probiotic such as Acidophilus, Avipro Plus, Bene-Bac Plus or Fibreplex to help counteract this.
As mentioned URIs can be fatal so you must ensure your chinchilla is successfully taking the antibiotics to treat the condition and is eating normally and not losing weight, to ensure they keep their strength up and avoid developing GI Statis (as described above). See the help guide under the Medical tab on administering medicine and hand feeding for further guidance
Your vet should prescribe an antibiotic such as Baytril to treat the URI and may also prescribe a painkiller such as Metacam. You may also need to hand feed your chinchilla critical care if they are not eating as normal.
Baytril can result in loss of appetite so monitor your chinchilla carefully to ensure they are eating properly and not losing weight. As antibiotics kill not only the bad bacteria making your chinchilla ill, but also the good bacteria in their gut, your vet may also prescribe a probiotic such as Acidophilus, Avipro Plus, Bene-Bac Plus or Fibreplex to help counteract this.
As mentioned URIs can be fatal so you must ensure your chinchilla is successfully taking the antibiotics to treat the condition and is eating normally and not losing weight, to ensure they keep their strength up and avoid developing GI Statis (as described above). See the help guide under the Medical tab on administering medicine and hand feeding for further guidance
UTI (Urinary Tract Infection)
As per the name, chinchillas can suffer with infections in the urinary tract. This painful infection can affect both males and females and requires vets treatment to diagnose the infection and treat accordingly.